PLAIN BOB DOUBLES
In this
session we will be looking at applying the "Magic Row" idea to the
simplest, but nevertheless real, method Plain Bob Doubles. From the Magic Row
of Plain Hunt we will develop a simplified and more general row, the
"coursing order". This coursing order and its manipulation is the
basis of conducting from Plain Bob right through to the most fiendish of
spliced surprise maximus compositions.
Before going
any further we will look at the structure of all methods, taking Plain Bob Doubles
as an example before comparing it with some other methods, and we will define
some terminology.
Method
Structure
All methods
are constructed in sections so that at the end of each section some or all of
the bells have arrived at the starting place of another bell. The section is
then repeated from the new starting row and this process is repeated until
Rounds reappears. In most methods the Treble returns to its own starting place
each time and rings either Plain Hunt or Treble Bob throughout. Such a bell is
called the "hunt bell". In some methods more than one bell, usually
Treble and 2nd, do this and in other methods none of the bells do this. Methods
without hunt bells, for example Stedman, are also known as
"principles". Those bells which are not hunt bells are "working
bells".
Plain Bob
Doubles is a typical "single hunt" method and Grandsire Doubles is a
typical "double hunt" method. None of this makes much difference to
the principles of the conducting techniques. The vast majority of methods are single
hunt methods and so what we say about conducting applies directly to them. For
the other methods the basic principles apply but some consideration of the
different number of hunt bells is made. We won't say any more about this until
we look at Grandsire.
The plain
course of Plain Bob Doubles is:
12345 13524 15432 14253
21435 31254 51342 41523
24153 32145 53124 45132
42513 23415 35214 54312
45231 24351 32541 53421
54321 42531 23451 35241
53412 45213 24315 32514
35142 54123 42135 23154
31524 51432 41253 21345
13254 15342 14523 12435
13524 15432 14253 12345
Fig.
1 - Plain Bob Doubles.
Points Arising From The Diagram
There are 4 columns, each headed by a row starting with bell 1. In
general for methods on different numbers of bells there are as many columns as
working bells.
In each column the Treble completes a complete Plain Hunt.
At the end of each column the remaining bells are all in places
different from those they started in, in such a way that each bell eventually
passes through each other bell's starting place.
Although the numbers in each column are different the structure of
each is the same.
A line is drawn between the handstroke and backstroke of the
Treble's lead. This line separates the row that is the true end of the column
from that which is really the start of the next column (very important point
and one that is missed by those who draw lines under the Treble's backstroke
lead).
Terminology
Division - any one of the sections into which a method is divided.
Lead - any division of a method with at least one hunt bell.
Lead End - the final row of a lead, usually the Treble's
handstroke lead.
Lead Head - the first row of a lead, usually the Treble's
backstroke lead. Also known as the "lead end".
Half Lead - the point half way through a lead where the Treble
starts to reverse its work.
Place Bell - the position where any bell starts a particular lead
and hence does the work of the bell that started
there from Rounds.
Other Methods
A look at the selection of methods on the supplementary sheets
will reveal that all the methods on those sheets are divided up into exactly
the same sort of sections as Plain Bob Doubles. In some of them the Treble
Plain Hunts and in others it Treble Bob Hunts but that doesn't matter.
There are other features common to all these methods but we will
deal with these in a later session. Suffice it to say for now that the
principles on which the conducting of Plain Bob are based are the same for all
of these other methods.
Magic Rows And Plain Bob Doubles
From the diagram in Fig. 1 we can see that for each lead
the bells come to lead as follows:
Lead
1 1 2 4 5 3 1
Lead
2 1 3 2 4 5 1
Lead
3 1 5 3 2 4 1
Lead
4 1 4 5 3 2 1
Fig. 2 - bells
leading in each lead of Plain Bob Doubles.
It seems that each lead has its own Magic Row. However, if we
realise that the Treble is doing its own thing in each lead and that all the
other bells are doing the same as each other we can treat the Treble
differently. Since the place where you meet the Treble depends on which bit of
the course you are in it is easiest to omit it from the Magic Row altogether.
If we look at Fig. 2 again but with the Treble omitted we get:
Lead
1 2 4 5 3
Lead
2 3 2 4 5
Lead
3 5 3 2 4
Lead
4 4 5 3 2
Fig. 3 - bells,
omitting the Treble, leading in each
lead
of Plain Bob Doubles.
From this it seems that the order in which the bells, other than
the Treble, lead is cyclic and is the same as the Magic Row for Plain Hunt
Doubles but omitting the Treble. In other words:
2
à à
3 4
ß
ß
5
Fig. 4 - Leading order for Plain Bob
Doubles.
This new order is what conductors use and it has a special name,
the "coursing order". The coursing order, then, is the order in which
the working bells, at least in some sense, follow each other round. In truth,
the order in which the bells lead or are passed are just manifestations of the
coursing order. The real derivation, which is related to lead heads and lead
orders and the need for a consistent system, will be dealt with in a later
session.
Coursing Order
The coursing order is usually started from the Tenor and so for
Plain Bob Doubles this is 5 3 2 4. As with the Magic Rows discussed previously
it doesn't have to be this way but convention has it that this is how it is.
There are several advantages to keeping to the convention but as most of these
won't become apparent until later we will just accept for now that this is the
case.
On higher numbers of bells the coursing order extends to include
the extra bells thus:
Minor 6 5 3 2 4
Triples 7 5 3 2 4 6
Major 8 7 5 3 2 4 6
Caters 9 7 5 3 2 4 6 8
Etc..
Fig. 4 - Full
coursing order for different numbers of bells.
Trying to keep this lot in your head whilst ringing is hard and so
it is usual to simplify things as much as possible. For this reason it is
conventional not only to omit the Treble but also to omit the Tenor, or Tenors.
Should you prefer to use a non-standard coursing order starting from your own
bell then just omit it. So, for Doubles the coursing order can be reduced from
5 3 2 4 to just 3 2 4, remembering that the 5 is still there but is always at
the start. For Minor the coursing order can be reduced from 6 5 3 2 4 to just 5
3 2 4.
On higher numbers it is usual for all but the most complex
compositions to use calls that only affect the smallest bells. In practice,
even on 12 bells, this means that only bells 2 to 6 need be affected by calls
and therefore these are the only bells whose coursing order need be remembered.
That means that for most compositions on 7 or more bells the coursing order is
5 3 2 4 6. In each case however the conductor needs to be aware of the full
coursing order in case of tragedies involving the big bells.
Doubles 3
2 4
Minor 5 3 2 4
Triples 5 3 2 4 6
Major 5 3 2 4 6
…
Maximus 5 3 2 4 6
Fig. 5 -
Coursing orders for different numbers of bells.
Conducting Plain Bob Doubles - The Plain Course
For Plain Bob Doubles, when ringing the 5th, the coursing order is
3 2 4. The Treble is omitted as explained earlier and the 5th is omitted but
understood to be at the start. The reduces the coursing order to a manageable 3
figures. Should you wish to ring another bell then you can do one of three
things according to your own tastes:
Stick with this
standard coursing order and keep track of the 5th,
Stick to this
standard coursing order but just start from your own position within it,
Rotate the basic
coursing order to get your bell to the front and then omit it.
An example of the third option if you wanted to ring the 2nd would
be rotate the basic coursing order, 5 3 2 4, to get your bell, the 2nd, to the
start, 2 4 5 3, then drop the 2nd to give 4 5 3. It is up to each conductor to
find out what suites them and it would be wrong at this stage to settle on any
one approach. In the long run it's probably easier to stick with the standard
coursing order at all times because this reduces the work load and increases
the familiarity with different coursing order after call have been made.
The coursing order is used in exactly the same way as the Magic
Row and so can be used to watch the bells leading, lying and passing you. The
only difficulty is allowing for the varying position of the Treble. You need to
make sure that you pass the Treble where you would expect to do for your next
dodge. This means two things: you must be sure of what your next dodge is
without relying on seeing the Treble and you must know where to expect the
Treble for each dodge. While checking the coursing order just pass the Treble
in the place where you would expect to pass it.
At this stage it is necessary to be able to see that the bells are
being passed in the correct order so that you at least know that the ringing is
still correct. Being able to see whose leading or lying (allowing for the
Treble) is very desirable in the long run but don't worry if that doesn't come
easily just yet. It is best to practice with good ringers before trying with
not so good ringers.
What To Say When Things Go Wrong
Should the ringing have gone wrong then it is necessary to put it
right. If you can see who's meant to be leading or who you're supposed to be
passing then it's a matter of telling each bell in turn when to lead or to pass
you in place x (their place) on their way up or down by reading off the
coursing order (accepting that some people will argue or will react by
muttering "yes, I know - idiot") and hoping that after they've
done it they will carry on hunting from there. The next thing to say is
"Dodge now" or "Everyone dodge" or something similar when
you do your next dodge, because everybody dodges (or makes places) at the same
time. Usually people will do the dodge that feels right and all will be well.
A Slightly More Advanced Bit
For those of you who wish to try this (otherwise skip to Place
Bells below) there is also a much more interesting use for the coursing order.
We will develop this fully in later sessions but for now we can look at the
diagram of Plain Bob Doubles and see something that can also be seen directly
from the coursing order. Look at this table, which shows which bells are doing
which work at each lead end:
First
LE Second LE Third LE Fourth
LE
Long
5ths 4 2 3 5
Dodge
3-4 up 5 4 2 3
Make
2nds 3 5 4 2
Dodge
3-4 down 2 3 5 4
Fig.
6 - Work done by each bell at each lead end.
We will sometimes talk about dodges being in "Plain Bob
Dodging order" or "Plain Bob order", or some such variation. What this means is simply the
order in which any bell does the dodges: 2nds, 3-4down, long 5ths, 3-4up etc..
The same will apply on higher numbers of bells. We may also refer to the
"Plain Bob lead order", which is 2 4 5 3 for example.
In each column it can be seen that whatever work any particular
bell is doing then the next bell in the coursing order is the bell that is
doing the next piece of work in Plain Bob order.
This requires some practice to be able to do in the head but it is
so useful in the more complex methods that you should be aware of it from now.
Place Bells
The dodges in Plain Bob all occur at the points where bells become
new place bells. Therefore in seeing what work each bell is doing you are also
seeing which place bell they are becoming:
Work New Place Bell
Make
2nds 2nds
Dodge
3-4 down 4ths
Make
Long 5ths 5ths
Dodge
3-4 up 3rds
Fig.
7 - Place bells corresponding to each bit of work.
Summary
We have modified the Magic Row and come up with the coursing
order. You need to get used to the coursing order for different numbers of
bells and to starting with the Tenor each time (even if you then omit it).
You need to practice watching Plain Bob Doubles with the coursing
order and allowing for the missing Treble.
If you can get used to working out and maybe watching which pieces
of work other bells are doing that will be very useful. Start by watching the
bell after yours in the coursing order doing the work after yours. Try with the
bell before yours and the work before yours.